Ubud: home of hippies and all things alternative. I arrived here two and a half weeks ago and still haven’t left; there is some kind of galvanizing magic in the air. On my first evening here I went straight to the famed Yoga Barn – a studio with a fitting name for me, I think;)
I walk into this Bohemian utopia of tie dyed harem pants and crop tops in what looks like a tropical film set location; the plants are so big and so green and glossy they almost don’t seem real. I sit down to take it all in, on a tall chair twice the size of me with an elaborate cream-coloured back that looks like a dreamcatcher and reminds me of a prop from Alice in Wonderland. I had to descend a series of cobbled pathways and wooden staircases to reach this oasis-like dreamland, and I feel a bit like Alice indeed.
Filled with curiosity I sit and observe the activity on the wide wooden floor of this amphitheatre, where yogis are busying themselves whilst waiting for their next class. I see men with gorgeously toned muscles dance to the tune in their heads and throw ribbon-covered instruments through the air, catching them again with grace and precision. I see couples practicing elevated partner-yoga moves: the guy with his back on the ground and the girl effortlessly floating in the air with her pelvis balancing on his raised feet; her arms stretched out like a bird in flight. I look around and realize that I’ve never seen so many chiseled bodies, tattoos or man-buns in my life!
I’m excited to join the Ecstatic Dance class that I’ve heard about but the concept of which I haven’t quite grasped… I naively ask the woman selling tickets if she’ll be teaching the class, not realizing that this is not your normal dance class. This is… something… else. No teacher, just the most elegantly beautiful Asian woman with an American accent standing behind a silver laptop. A dreamcatcher sticker covers the Apple logo and the DJ introduces herself as Sophie Sôfrēē. I smile.
Over a hundred and fifty barefoot people sit on the wooden floor of the elevated studio, which is open to thenight sky on three sides. Lanterns glow with soft light and we’re asked to close our eyes, take a deep breath and connect with our souls. Then sigh and let go of any sound that comes out – I try not to laugh as I hear birds coo, wolves howl and even chimps hoot all around me. We’re told to feel the energy rise in our base chakra and people start to twist their bodies in spiral motions while slowly rising to their feet. It feels primal and creative and it feels good.
The music sounds like something from ancient times, with an intoxicating tribal beat to it. Everyone is here: every age and shape; topless guys in board shorts or Buddha pants; bald and dreadlocked and shaved heads; girls and guys in neon patterned electro funk tights with glitter on their faces; even some timid-looking first timers in normal workout gear (like me). Everyone interprets the music in their own way and dances in their own style. Some are swaying with spirit fingers; others look like they’re at a rave; a few are even intertwined with each other on the floor. You can be whoever you want to be and movehowever you like to move. I sense that there’s no judgement here, each person is invited to express themselves however they choose. It’s so freeing and beautiful to witness. Like the DJ said: we are all just stardust, moving to the rhythm of life.
I dance around the room dropping my inhibitions with each step. I twirl and shake and stomp and curtsy, I do ballet moves and hip-hop moves and other moves that probably can’t be classified as any style whatsoever. I don’t know what I’m doing, but it’s silly and it’s fun and it’s rapturous and I love it! This is my idea of (healthy) Friday night clubbing!
After an hour and a half of dancing whole-heartedly, sweating profusely and downing water like I haven’t had any in days, we all collapse to the ground in a big circle and start to sing songs along to guitar strumming. We raise our spirit fingers up to Grandfather Sky and down to Mother Earth and end off with a collective bowed “Namasté.” I think to myself, namasté right near this here Barn for a while;)
I return on Sunday to attend a special class for World Yoga Day, where we do 108 sun salutations non-stop. In contrast to the wildness of the free form dancing, this is hard. The repetitiveness of it takes strength, focus and discipline. Theyoga teacher tells us that to make it easier, we can turn the corners of our lips upwards on each side. (Throughout our yoga classes we’re given succinct and profound reminders for our practice and for life: Smile. Drop the drama. Perpetually clear your mental palette.)
As my body sweats and strains my mind wanders and I decide that this would be a good day to turn vegan. I’ve been semi-vegetarian for twenty years but if I’m going to take it to the next level, I might as well start here. Ubud caters for vegans like no other place I’ve been – you hardly even have to try. There are ample organic / raw / vegan cafés with menus so comprehensive I can’t decide what on Earth to order! It’s a Mecca for foodies, yogis, dancers, creatives… I feel like I’ve found my Heaven on Earth. After finishing a grueling ninety minutes of sun salutations, I walk out to find a fresh coconut and a plate of vegan delights.
I love that I can walk into any restaurant and always find other girls like me, relishing their healthy bites of food between reading, writing, sketching or even meditating. Today a girl and I kept catching each other’s eye across the table until I realized she was making a drawing of me busily writing. We had a brief exchange of me asking questions and her nodding or pointing at something, as I learnt that she was in her seventh day of ten days of silence. I’ve met so many interesting people on such beautiful journeys and I just love this place. I feel at home in this magical energy vortex. The specialness of it all is palpable in the collective Om’s and Shanti’s of each gathering, where frequencies are raised and alchemy occurs. It’s like poetry for your senses and I feel like I could just stay down this rabbit hole forever…
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